Wednesday 22 MAY

Caught the train two stops south from Frankfurt Central and got off at the edge of the Frankfurt Green Belt which surrounds the city. More allotments on one side and a big park called the Louisa Gardens on the other, which didn't seem accessible from this where I was. I walked on little roads into a forest which I subsequently learnt was part of the Stadtwald, or city woods. Lots of beech trees, lots of paths for bikes and horses, joggers and dog-walkers popping up now and again, and occasionally a vista of a tram rattling through the trees. Meanwhile overhead the planes were making their descent to Frankfurt Airport.

My half-baked guide app got me to an old stone bridge and a well from 1640 before I more or less gave up on it and just followed the creek. This brought me through a swamp to a lake, which looked very nice but smelt rather pungent, and my second point of interest, the Pissing Tree. Someone has installed a pipe about two metres up the tree which shoots out a jet of water every thirty seconds, and there is a sign at the bottom which reads 'Men have pissed on me for 500 years. Now I piss on them.' or words to that effect. Very risible. No doubt it's a big hit on stag nights. Different kinds of ducks here -- very colourful -- and some black-and-white geese.

Continued through the forest until I came out near a big highway, and took the underpass to Neu-Isenberg. This is where the tram line ends; it's a sort of satellite suburb, with a bit of Old Town in it, but mainly just a row of shops. Here I saw an ad for a new tour by King Crimson in July. Frankfurt does seem to attract old rockers; Anthrax is coming soon, and Ian Anderson has a solo gig at the old church in town in November.

Caught the tram back. It was getting cold and looked like rain, so I decided on the way to visit the big art gallery on the south side of the river. That meant I had gone too far, so I backtracked by tram and walked along to the gallery, where a massive crowd of geriatrics were queueing to get in. I don't know where they all came from, or where they all went, because once in I had the top floor mostly to myself for a while.

This had an interesting display showing the backs of some of their old paintings, and the materials, treatment and marks that were revealed by them. I hadn't realised that in addition to canvas and wood, artists often worked on slate, copper plates or even marble, with differences in the images as a result. Then on to the main galleries -- Old Masters at the top, 1800-1945 in the middle, and modern art on the ground floor. A good collection, with a bit of everyone and some excellent English signage. I've seen a couple of James Ensor paintings now, which Jen and Bill will know about from They Might Be Giants; but I can't say I was all that impressed.

Much of the modern art in the basement was the usual dreary rubbish, though there were a few that stood out. And as a bonus there was an exhibition of Picasso prints, along with details of how they were made. All very interesting, but I came out longing for a coffee.

I found one at an Eis (i.e.ice cream) cafe, and had it with a Belgian waffle, which was OK. I had thoughts of getting a beer, but I couldn't find a bar which looked really congenial, so I walked up and had a look at the Eischenheimer Tower before getting the tram home for the last time.

It's now Thursday morning. Today I travel to Friedrichshafen and tomorrow, if all goes to plan, I take my Zeppelin flight. After that I think I will have earnt a day off.

Love to all.

Jon.