Day 6: Dunedin to Papatowai

Drove down slowly from Dunedin, taking a detour to the west of the city through the hills. Stopped for a couple of walks on the way. One was signposted to a waterfall and a glow-worm glen, but the glow-worms weren't operating and I couldn't find the waterfall. Like the Tasmanians, New Zealanders are very good at labelling the start of their walks: 'Waterfall this way', but when you get halfway up the hill and the track splits into three, there's a conspicuous absence of any indication which way to go. But it was all very forestry and pleasant.

Stopped again at a historical site where there were some ruins of an early farm and a tree plantation. Explored around there and then proceeded south on the main road to Waihola, where there is a pretty lake. I turned off the main road here on to what they described as the scenic route. 

It was certainly that, with dramatic valleys on both sides and cliffs running down to the sea. But it soon became a gravel road, the signs ran out again, and after a while even Google Maps couldn't find me. I passed a hawk on the road tearing up some roadkill, and it looked very indignant at being disturbed. 

Fortunately Google Maps found me again, and I re-emerged on the main road at Milton. Soon afterwards I stopped for another walk which went through an old disused railway tunnel. Very damp and spooky, although the only other occupant was a dead possum. Had lunch at the Indian Restaurant in Balclutha, just beside the mighty Clutha River.

Back on the road again with one more stop just outside Papatowai where there were two waterfalls--properly signposted for once--and another stretch of railbed. I walked through a deep cutting in one direction -- rather like the one at Glenbrook, but more so -- and decided to save the other direction for another day.

And another stop where the sign told me to 'follow the marker posts' to a scenic reserve; the only problem being that there weren't any marker posts. But I followed my nose, and came out eventually at a very odd place overlooking a huge field which had been systematically stripped of every atom of vegetation. It was just a big brown gravelly plain, about the size of four football fields. What possible purpose could that serve?

I was relieved to find that Papatowai was a real place, with coffee shops and everything, and not just a name on the map; and I had no trouble finding my B&B, which is a nice little three-room cottage in the host's back yard. This is the second place, though, where the toilet/bathroom has been physically separated from the bedroom, involving a trip outside. I wonder if there's some odd regulation which makes it easier to do things that way.

So here I am, and the rain has set in with a vengeance, so I probably won't do much walking unless it clears.

--

Jon Jermey
Indexer and database consultant
042 535 0422
webindexing.com.au

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