Day 10: Papatowai to The Bluff
Left Papatowai and drove north towards Balclutha. I managed to stop off at the rail trail I had done part of coming in, and completed that. Still a bit drizzly, but nice views. On the way back I encountered three wild deer; they were as surprised to see me as I was them. Further on I turned off to another waterfall, and had to wait on the way while three farmers in utes drove a couple of hundred sheep along the road and into a pen, ably assisted by a sheepdog. The waterfall itself was very pretty, and I had it to myself.
There was one detour on the way to Balclutha, but at least this one was properly signed, I got there about lunchtime, and took a break. There is a pleasant little park there alongside the river, with an aviary – mostly parrots, but a few pigeons and some budgerigars.
Stocked up with food at Balclutha New World supermarket and continued to the west. Fairly smooth most of the way, although there were a couple of rough stretches and a few detours towards the end. The road was very busy, having been blocked for a day, and there were many, many bikers making their way to the Burt Munro event in Invercargill. I still haven't established exactly what this is supposed to be, but it seems to involve riding aimlessly back and forth in large numbers, making a lot of noise, and monopolising the eating places. I've seen one ambulance coming away from the Bluff already, and no doubt there will be more.
Stopped for lunch in Gore, a surprisingly busy and pleasant town some 70k north of Invercargill. Unfortunately many places were closed because it was a public holiday, but I had eggs benedict in a pub dining room. Strolled around town for a bit and visited the local council museum, which told the story of Creamola, the chief product of the town's main employer, an oat processing factory. This was a booming business for many years until it was taken over and closed down by an Australian firm, and the factory building was sold under the covenant that it wasn't to be used for producing human food. It has a new lease of life now, however, as an animal food factory, and it has resurrected the old Creamola mascot, Capt'n Dan, as its own brand.
Got to Invercargill about 2 pm. This is an odd town; imagine a complete town built in 1850 or so, and then having one-tenth of the buildings chosen at random every decade for demolition and replacement with contemporary structures. It's a complete jumble. To make it worse, a big chunch of the central shopping area is fenced off for demolition because it's apparently not earthquake-safe. Similarly in Bluff, on an smaller scale; but neither demolition is proceeding very quickly.
Strolled around briefly and found a K-Mart where I bought a new USB cord. Headed on then to Bluff, about 20k away on the coast, and got there about four. It's still very cloudy, cold and windy, and the accommodation there turned out to be a tiny shack with a bed and a toilet cubiclle that I'm not sure I could even fit into. Cooking and eating is done outside in a roofed verandah with an old gas stove, and the shower is also out and gas-powered. Fortunately I only have two nights here now and not three.
Went for a walk along the shoreline to Sterling Point – about an hour there and back, with views of the islands in Foveaux Sound. There's a ferry to one of these, with wildlife walks at the other end, but given the weather it's not an attractive prospect.
Made sausages with creamed corn for dinner and finished the last Dunedin beer. Took a tablet – and so to bed.
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